Amidst a challenging economic climate affecting brands of all sizes, London Fashion Week's 40th anniversary last week offered a moment of reflection. Jonathan Anderson, who has showcased his JW Anderson label for 15 years, views this period as a "transitory" phase for all fashion weeks. In a post-show interview, Anderson suggested that these tough times might also create opportunities. “Strangely enough, the current economic conditions might help us refocus on the true purpose of fashion weeks,” he remarked, emphasizing the importance of understanding what fashion weeks stand for and the messages designers wish to convey.
While Anderson reaffirmed his commitment to London, the schedule has faced significant changes. In recent seasons, several designers, including Victoria Beckham and the avant-garde Dilara Findikoglu, have chosen to present their collections outside of London. Meanwhile, established names like Christopher Kane and American designer Halpern have closed their doors. This season saw notable absences, such as Molly Goddard, a favorite among London’s fashion elite, and Rejina Pyo, who has been missing from the schedule since February 2022. David Koma also withdrew weeks before the event, opting to invest in marketing campaigns instead.
Despite the challenges, London Fashion Week saw some exciting returns to the UK capital. S.S. Daley, the youngest designer on the lineup and recent winner of the Queen Elizabeth II Prize, made a notable comeback to London after his last appearance in February 2023. His show attracted a star-studded audience, including Harry Styles, Anna Wintour, and Emma Corrin from The Crown. Similarly, Nensi Dojaka, who claimed the LVMH Prize in 2021, reestablished her presence in London after an 18-month hiatus. Avant-garde designer Carly Marks of New York’s Puppets and Puppets also chose this season to showcase in London.
All eyes, however, were on Burberry, the largest brand on the London Fashion Week roster, which has been grappling with a significant drop in profits. The show, held in the lobby of the National Theatre, was seen as a crucial opportunity for creative director Daniel Lee to reinvent the brand and reignite consumer interest. While it’s too soon to gauge the full impact, the more restrained presentation hinted at a move towards more sophisticated and potentially commercial designs.
This season’s shows took advantage of some of London’s most iconic venues, including the Old Bailey courthouse, the Royal Academy, the British Museum’s courtyard, and Arsenal’s Emirates Stadium. Meanwhile, smaller brands opted for more intimate settings, proving that sometimes simplicity can be powerful. Designers such as Talia Byre, Sinead O’Dwyer, Ancuta Sarca, and Puppets and Puppets showed that understated presentations could make a strong impact. Welsh-Italian designer Paolo Carzana took this concept to heart, presenting his theatrical collection in the garden of his East London home.
The five-day London Fashion Week delivered an impressive array of collections for the Spring-Summer 2025 season, showcasing the city’s enduring status as a global creative hub. Designers like Simone Rocha, Aaron Esh, and Richard Quinn reaffirmed London’s prominence in the fashion world with their compelling presentations.
This season's exploration of sensuality was diverse and provocative. At Puppets and Puppets, nudity took center stage with minimalistic styling that let the accessories make a bold statement. Di Petsa’s runway featured striking metallic nipple pasties, accentuating Adonis-like physiques with a dramatic flair. At 16 Arlington, sheer fabrics and bead-encrusted designs dazzled, with models sporting glittering hotpants and bikini tops that captured a playful, yet sultry vibe.
Simone Rocha revisited the mini skirt, offering both voluminous tutus and sleek satin slips, while Nensi Dojaka continued her signature approach of transforming evening gowns into lingerie-inspired pieces. Yet, sensuality wasn't limited to skin exposure. Aaron Esh presented a fresh take on sex appeal with tailored leather trousers, chic heeled ankle boots, and sheer blouses, all paired with oversized sunglasses and baseball caps. This look conveyed a sense of effortless allure, proving that sometimes, sophistication is about subtlety and confidence.
This summer, the concept of "girliness" has undergone a transformative shift, evolving into a complex blend of attitudes and contradictions. No longer confined to a single, simplistic notion, girl power now embodies a multifaceted cultural phenomenon. This new definition of girliness is evident in various realms, from the powerful solidarity displayed by athletes like Simone Biles and Jordan Biles during the Olympics—where they honored gold medalist Rebecca Andrade with a bow—to Vice President Kamala Harris’s historic campaign for the presidency.
Designers have also embraced this nuanced take on femininity. At the JW Anderson show, the designer played with contrasts by presenting leather tutus, inspired by his sister’s blend of girly charm and tough resilience. Anderson noted, “She can get quite girly sometimes, but there’s a toughness, a kind of ownership…I can’t relate but I like the attitude.”
At Erdem, founder and creative director Erdem Moralıoğlu drew inspiration from the queer novel The Well of Loneliness by Marguerite Antonia Radclyffe Hall, which was banned upon its 1928 release for its portrayal of a lesbian romance. Moralıoğlu’s collection merged delicate lace slip dresses with tailored Savile Row suits, celebrating and questioning traditional femininity simultaneously.
Chopova Lowena also embraced this theme by referencing "ferocious feminine muses from America's past." The collection juxtaposed rugged elements like denim, studs, and spurred boots with softer details such as ruffles, bloomers, voluminous miniskirts, and embroidered flowers, creating a striking dialogue between strength and softness.
